DISCOVER
THE ALBATRE COAST
In this section, you'll find all the certified discovery tips from Sainte-Marguerite sur Mer's seasoned walkers! From the Ailly lighthouse to the Manor d'Ango and the Vasterival gardens, there's something for horse lovers, sea lovers and Sunday strollers alike.
Select a place to discover from the left-hand column
Sainte-Marguerite Beach
It is characteristic of the region, with its pebbled shores and large expanses of sand uncovered at low tide.
You'll come across fishermen embarking to raise their traps, as well as those coming to fill their baskets with shrimp or bouquets.
Swimmers are well catered for, with lifeguards on duty all summer long. There's a playground for children, a dedicated piste for pétanque enthusiasts and picnic tables for families.
After swimming or playing, there are showers for everyone to quench their thirst, and for those feeling peckish, a catering service is available during the season.
The cabins lining the promenade can be rented by the month or for shorter periods.
Le Phare d'Ailly
The rocky area beneath the Pointe d'Ailly has always been the scene of numerous shipwrecks. Rocks that have fallen into the sea as a result of the cliffs collapsing, create obstacles on which ships run aground.
As early as the 18th century, the question of marking out this high-risk area arose, as no fewer than 40 shipwrecks occurred in three months in 1765 alone.
The first lighthouse, Phare Pompadour, was commissioned in November 1775.
Situated 156 metres from the cliff edge, it takes the form of a square tower, 5.50 metres on each side, set on a 4.40-metre-high base. Its lantern consists of a coal-fired open fire, culminating at 22 meters above the ground, i.e. 100 meters above the sea, but requiring 600 kg of fuel per night... hoisted up on a man's back!
In 1780, the lantern was glazed over and coal was replaced by oil-powered streetlights. At the same time, a janitor's house was built, along with an oil gas production plant. In 1852, a rotating beacon was installed - the first in France - equipped with Fresnel lenses, increasing the lighthouse's visibility to 30 kilometers.
With erosion of the Pointe d'Ailly threatening the lighthouse, the decision was taken in 1897 to build a new one further away from the cliff edge.
Set back 90 metres from its predecessor, the new building features a red-brick structure erected on a stone base. Its cylindrical lantern rises to a height of 100 metres.
from sea level.
Inaugurated in 1899, it was fitted with petroleum gas incandescent lamps in 1903, increasing its visibility to 40 kilometers.
However, it wasn't until 1932 that it was electrified.
After the D-Day landings on August 19, 1942, the lighthouse was switched off and the optics were taken to a safe place, along with
mercury.
On August 31, 1944, the Germans dynamited the building. Reconstruction would have to wait, as France had other priorities in 1945!
1949, the base of the first lighthouse returns to service with a temporary lantern....
This temporary arrangement lasted until 1958, when the current lighthouse, with its 45-kilometer range and 3 grouped flashes interspersed with 12 seconds of darkness, was commissioned.
Les Sentiers
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Sainte Marguerite-sur-Mer extends over 541 hectares, partly on the Ailly site. |
| Trail map
The main circuits are signposted from two starting points (D1 and D2) and three points of interest: the church, the Ailly lighthouse and a nature trail.
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The Nature Trail
The Cap d'Ailly site is one of the few cliff-top woodlands in our region. It is an exceptional site from many points of view: geological, floristic, faunistic and landscape.
Much of this woodland belongs to the commune of Sainte Marguerite sur mer and the Conservatoire du Littoral (around 50 ha). It features a veritable mosaic of environments: pine forest, deciduous coppice, Atlantic wet moorland, network of ponds...
Numerous protected species are present on the site.
Unique geological features in Normandy
The site is located on the "Varengeville syncline", characterized by low-lying chalk cliffs (35 m at their lowest point). The Tertiary formations that have accumulated above them are unique in Normandy.
The presence of groundwater (between 2 and 12 meters deep) flowing towards the sea has led to significant erosion of the cliffs, characterized by a landslide profile of three sub-cliffs known as "frettes".
Intense erosion
These formations are characterized by aquifers at the top of the clays and in the sandy or stony levels. The result is a high degree of instability due to the alternation of permeable (sand) and impermeable (clay) materials, saturated by water from the two aquifers flowing towards the sea. Under these conditions, an erosion front 4 km long and 50 to 250 m wide is formed. These are the "frettes", where whole sections of material in place come loose and form crevasses, sliding down onto the flats. Schematically, they comprise 3 back cliffs and 3 flats more or less masked by landslides.
Erosion is taking place at the top of the cliff (-80 m since 1930) and at the bottom (-60 m in 100 years).
The first lighthouse (1775), 156 m from the frets, collapsed in 1964, representing an average annual retreat of 0.90 m.
Local regression can be spectacular. In 1966, at a distance of 300 m from the lighthouse, the cliff retreated 250 m in 18 months, i.e. 166 m/year.
Monitoring of the cliff edge using the G.P.S. (Global Positioning System) showed that the coastline had retreated by 20 m in 9 years (drawing of the coastline on the 1991 cadastral map), i.e. an average of 2 m/year.
The flora of the Bois de l'Ailly
Water is omnipresent on the site and has given rise to a very special flora, similar to that of the crystalline massifs of Scotland and Brittany.
Indeed, the dampness of the soil and the acidic nature of the geological materials from the Tertiary period have given rise to wet Atlantic moorland landscapes that are unique in the département.
Nevertheless, the abandonment of pastoral activities, which were very much in evidence at the beginning of the last century, has irrevocably led to the afforestation of the land and thus to a change in the floristic characteristics of the area.
As a result, the vegetation on the site is largely dominated by forest stands (pine forests, thickets and coppices). However, there are still many small areas of relict heathland. Some are severely degraded by blue mullein (an invasive grass) and spontaneous colonization by woody plants. Unfortunately, there is reason to fear that these environments will become increasingly commonplace.
Today, 196 plant species have been listed by the Conservatoire des Sites Naturel de Haute-Normandie.
According to the "Inventaire de la flore vasculaire de Haute-Normandie" 42 species stand out:
- 3 exceptional species
- 6 very rare species
- 3 rare species
- 9 fairly rare species
- 21 uncommon species
The vast majority of these plants are adapted to the site's open environments, particularly heathland.
The most threatened plant species are :
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Threat |
Scientific name |
French name |
Protection |
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Severely affected species threatened with extinction |
Genista anglica |
English broom |
Regional |
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Epipactis palustris |
Marsh epipactis |
Regional |
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Salix repens subsp . repens |
Creeping willow |
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Ulex gallii |
Le Gall gorse |
Regional |
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Endangered species extinguishing |
Drosera rotundifolia |
Round-leaved Rossolis |
National |
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Erica tetralix |
Four-cornered heather |
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Pedicularis sylvatica |
Wood lousewort |
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Vulnerable species |
luzula multiflora congesta |
Collected Luzula |
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Juncus bulbosus |
Bulbous rush |
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All these species are threatened with extinction in the wild in the Haute-Normandie region. Cap d'Ailly therefore plays a key role in the protection and conservation of locally threatened plant species.
Floristic interest is therefore undeniable. However, the remarkable species are for the most part linked to the presence of moorland, and the exceptional and protected species are exclusively associated with open environments.
From a botanical point of view, the moors are the site's main interest.
Wildlife at Cap d'Ailly
Birdlife
Boreal tit.
Given the diversity of its natural environments, Cap d'Ailly is a highly favorable ecocomplex, not only for the nesting of several bird species, but also as a pre- and post-nuptial migratory stopover and wintering station.
An inventory carried out by the Groupe Ornithologique Normand found 75 bird species on or near the site.
A few uncommon species are worth mentioning:
- Boreal tit
- Black tit
- Fulmar petrel
- Little owl
- Long-eared owl
- Black Woodpecker
Mammals
The Cap d'Ailly site, and more specifically the wood, is regularly home to 16 species of mammal.
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Insectivores :
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Canidae :
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Lagomorphs :
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Rodents :
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Artiodactyls :
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Mustelidae :
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Amphibians 
9 amphibian species are frequently observed on the site: - Spotted salamander In the center of the western part of the wood is a relatively old pond, reputed to be one of the richest in Upper Normandy for its amphibians. |
Reptiles  3 species are present:- viviparous lizard- Orvet - Ram's viper |
Orthopterans (locusts, grasshoppers and crickets)
Ten species were identified by the Conservatoire des Sites Naturels de Haute-Normandie in 2002.
* The heather beetle is mainly found on wet heather moors. |
Concerted management For many years, the Commune of Sainte Marguerite-sur-mer has been aware of the richness of its territory. It has therefore endeavored to surround itself with technical and financial partners capable of meeting the heritage challenges of Cap d'Ailly. As a result, a management committee meets at least once a year to approve the various operations carried out on the site. - In 1996, the commune signed an easement to protect Cap d'Ailly with the Conservatoire de l'Espace Littorale et des Rivages Lacustres. Since then, this organization has financed ecological restoration work and acquired new land bordering the site. - Since 1999, Cap d'Ailly has been classified as a Sensitive Natural Area in Seine-Maritime. The Conseil Général works alongside the commune to manage and develop the site. - Other partners are regularly involved in the management of Cap d'Ailly, making technical or financial contributions: Conservatoire des Site Naturel de Haute Normandie, Office National des Forêts, Agence de l'eau, etc. |
Key management areas In order to gain a better understanding of the state of the natural environment and develop a management policy, the Conservatoire du Littoral financed a study and the development of a 10-year management plan. |
Open environments : note : At the beginning of the last century, Cap d'Ailly was much less wooded than it is today. Numerous pastoral activities tended the moors in the area. The colonization of these environments by the forest has led to the banalization of the flora. recommended actions : Increase the area of open land. This can be achieved by reopening a few clearings in the Bois de l'Ailly, where the heathland flora should reappear. Grazing must then be reintroduced to maintain this biotope. Since 2002, hardy sheep from the Conservatoire des Sites Naturels de Haute-Normandie have been grazing the site. |
Forest environments : note : They can be broken down into two types of silviculture: highly impoverished hardwood coppices (birch and oak), and ageing softwood forests (maritime pine and Scots pine). recommended actions : In deciduous coppices, forest thinning should be carried out, favoring the least-represented tree species. The aim is to depressurize the trees and diversify the stand. |
Wetlands : note : Cap d'Ailly is home to numerous ponds, making it an important breeding ground for amphibians. Forest pools fill up very quickly. |
The Romanesque church
Twelfth-century architecture expressed in a sober Romanesque aisle. The apse dates from the same period, and the stone altar is considered the oldest in the Pays de Caux.
The right-hand side of the church dates from the 16th century. The modern stained-glass windows that illuminate the whole in warm colors are by Max Ingrand. The church is open during the day, and an interesting brochure on the building is available.
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Vasterival gardens
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Created in 1957 by Princess Sturdza, this nine-hectare garden, designed and calculated down to the last centimetre, is well protected from the wind by a hedge of cypress, birch and willow trees. It features 10,000 species of plants and remains magical in every season. |
| Guided tours daily by appointment for groups of 5 to 25 people.
Vasterival Gardens Tel.: 02 35 85 12 05 |
| E-mail : levasterival@orange.fr |
| Website : http://www.vasterival.fr |
Vasterival valley and beach
This green gap in the line of cliffs plunges down to a beach renowned for its peace and quiet and for its fishing.
The valley is bordered by the Bois de Vasterival, which rises on one side to Ailly, its wood and lighthouse, and on the other to the church of Saint-Valéry and the Bois des Moutiers in Varengeville sur Mer.
A few hundred metres further up the road, you can quench your thirst or enjoy a meal at the "La Terrasse" hotel-restaurant.
Dieppe Castle Museum
The only monument - along with the churches of St Rémy and St Jacques - to have survived the Anglo-American bombing.
built in 1694, the Vieux-Château houses the city's maritime memory and one of the finest ivory collections in Europe.
Rue de Chaste
76200 Dieppe
Tel: 02 35 84 19 76
Fax: 02 32 90 12 79
St-Valéry church and St-Dominique chapel in Varengeville
The famous Saint-Valéry church is a must-see.
Firstly, because it was built on the edge of a cliff, offering a breathtaking view of the sea and the cliffs. But also for its stained glass windows, including one by George Braque, who lies in the cemetery surrounding the church.
Other stained glass windows by George Braque and a painting by Maurice Denis can be seen in the Saint-Dominique chapel, which is on the main road (D75) that crosses Varengeville sur Mer between Sainte Marguerite and Dieppe.
Shamrock Garden, world collection of hydrangeas and hydrangeas
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This two-hectare garden is home to one of the world's largest collections of hydrangeas. This world-renowned green setting features 2,000 plants, including 1,200 different varieties (species, subspecies and cultivars) grown naturally and selected by horticulturists over more than a century. |
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This collection has been assembled by Corinne Mallet since 1984. Some of the plants in this collection are unique in the Western world. Most of them come from Japan, the birthplace of a large number of Hydrangea species. The collection is organized into two zones. The first is in the form of a labyrinth, with each bed dedicated to a breeder, by country or region of the world. This layout makes it easy to understand the world of Hydrangeas, and makes the Shamrock Collection a "living museum" of its kind. The flowerbeds are set in a green setting of paulownias and buddleias, providing the shade needed by most varieties. The second area is wooded: the Dragon Wood, where Asian undergrowth species are cultivated. |
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Opening times : Open every day except Tuesday morning from June 15 to September 15, from 10:00 to 12:00 and from 14:30 to 18:00 (from September 16 to 30, open every afternoon except Tuesday). Collection Nationale C.C.V.S. Tel.: 02 35 85 14 64 |
| Website : http://www.hortensias-hydrangea.com |
Le Parc du Bois des Moutiers in Varengeville sur Mer
Around a house built in 1898 by British architect Sir Edwin Lutyens, the Guillaume Mallet family, creators of the estate, invite you to explore a set of walled gardens unique in France, where colors and fragrances blend harmoniously.
After the chambre de verdure, strollers discover a large landscaped park with spectacular blooms: Chinese magnolias, Turkish azaleas, giant Himalayan rhododendrons (reaching 12 m in height!) and a collection of blue hydrangeas, with the church and nearby sea as a backdrop.
Le Bois des Moutiers
76119 Varengeville-sur-Mer
Tel: 02 35 85 10 02
Le Manoir D'Ango
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The former summer palace of Jehan Ango, a wealthy shipowner and patron of the arts, the Manoir d'Ango is a unique monument, with its exceptional Italian Renaissance architecture, its dovecote - said to be the finest in France - its site, its park... Manoir d'Ango was one of the first monuments to be classified as a historic monument, in 1862. It will delight lovers of old stones. |
 Manoir d'Ango courtyard and dovecote Opening days :
Opening hours : 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. and 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. Contact details : Manoir d'Ango 76119 Varengeville-sur-Mer Tel. 02 35 04 19 94 - 06 72 09 08 67 |
| E-mail : contact@manoirdango.fr |
| Website : http://www.manoirdango.fr |
Pourville sur Mer
Situated between Sainte Marguerite and Dieppe, Pourville is a small seaside resort where you can enjoy seafood in the restaurants lining the beach.
Don't miss the viewpoint on one of the bends leading up to Dieppe. A parking area has been set aside for you to stop and admire one of the finest panoramas of the coast.
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